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It won't be necessary too much camo since beavers sight is limited by night, in fact you may be as close as 5 or 4 meters and probably beavers won't see you, so it's not necessary to take too much care to get invisible.

But regarding hearing things are a lot different. Beavers sense of ear is quite fine that they may perceive even the smallest vibration on the water, so you must remain quiet all along hunting, otherwise beavers will detect your presence and will disappear on the water where you won't be able to catch them.

In addition try to avoid stepping on the water; walk on the riverside but never inside the water because even the smallest sound will be detected by beavers alerting them about danger.

Remember that these animals tend to life on the water but usually feed on the land, in fact their main food source is outside the water, thus try to spot them where they eat in order to make things easier, after all shooting to the water does not seem to be a good idea.

Even when some other regulation may exist depending of the state you are hunting on, overall the above mentioned are a constant on almost each state with pheasants and despite of minor differences, general guidelines are the same.

Let's take as example Kansas Pheasant Hunting regulations. 

On Kansas the keystone of this policy is the cocks only hunting. Pheasant are polygamous, meaning that a single cock mates several hens; thus if only cocks are hunt, those remaining alive at the end of the season will be able to keep the population mating with more hens each.

The only way to fail would be a total annihilation of male pheasants, something impossible considering the bag limit of 4 birds per day (it may vary season to season and state to state). 

The bag limit is based on the total birds population and the average number of hunters on a particular state. The bag limit is set on a point not representing excessive pressure to reproductive cocks. 

On the other hand, long time exposure to cold weather may lead to hypothermia no matter how well adapted dogs are, so identifying signs and symptoms of hypothermia remains paramount for hunters in order to keep their dogs safe.

Here it's necessary to make a pause because if you identify hypothermia on one or more of your hounds, probably is because you failed to prevent it! So keep in mind that the best hypothermia treatment is prevention! ... if you do your job well preventing it, probably it will be never necessary to identify its symptoms.

But just in case, be sure to be aware about what to look for when you suspect hypothermia on your hounds and be prepared to deal with it immediately in order to prevent death.

First of all, same as humans dogs will begin to shiver and tremble. This way the body tries to keep body temperature but sooner or later the mechanism fail and temperature drops, so if your hound is trembling it's time to stop hunting and take care of it.

Another clear sign of hypothermia are behavior changes. When a dog suffer of hypothermia looks weak and lethargic, probably it will be sleepy and will move slower than usual. 

In fact your hounds will have to keep still for long periods, on a given position and most of time surrounded by wet or snow. Under such circumstances it's harder for your dogs to keep their body temperature and it's on you to be aware about hypothermia prevention.

Otherwise your hounds safety will be jeopardized and probably you will have to deal with tragic consequences.

So, forget about the myth of dogs immunity to hypothermia and keeps eyes wide open to identify any sign of it in order to proceed accordingly, however if you note hypothermia on your hounds is because you failed to prevent it, so the best choice is to be a step forward and prevent hypothermia.

How to do it?

Well, you don't need to find a coat and a hat for your dogs unless you are hunting for long periods on very, very cold conditions such as arctic climate, if not, your hounds hair cover will be enough.

But remember that hair cover provides insulation until it gets wet! So if you are waterfowling be aware of how much time your dogs are in the water as well water temperature, avoid to keep them too much time on the ground wet and allow some movement time to time to increase their body temperature.

On this regard it's important to masterize the art of calling. A wrong call, calling so much or using an inappropriate call sign will alert geese about your presence and once they know you are there, take for sure birds won´t land near such a suspicious call.

Learning to choose the right call and how to use it adequately will take time, for this reason novice hunters must learn from an experienced hunter on a tailored fashion, that means, one to one teaching until the rookie hunter achieves the necessary knowledge.

Easier to learn but not less important is how to deploy your decoys. Decoys are the soul of waterfowling and learning how to deploy them remains a cornerstone for success.

Even when there are different setting options, overall a decoy deployment should contain around 80% of feeding decoys and 20% of active ones. It's also important to use the same type of decoys.

Geese are different from ducks where shells and full body decoys may be mixed; in fact it's a good strategy, but for geese this won't work good enough.